Author Topic: Battello  (Read 3533 times)

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In a Nautical Perch, a Home for Fine Dining
A Review of Battello in Jersey City
By FRAN SCHUMER, The New York Times
OCT. 17, 2014

The patio at Battello, the stunning new restaurant that opened in March on the Newport Yacht Club and Marina Pier in Jersey City, offers a postcard view of the Manhattan skyline.

Inside, the view is just as grand. The ceilings soar. The large, lofty space evokes the functional mood of a boathouse but one so finely wrought that it also exudes the luxury of waterfront fine dining.

Anthony Carrino, a host of HGTV’s popular “Kitchen Cousins,” is the mastermind behind a series of open areas that include a bar, several dining rooms and a bridal suite. They draw residents of Jersey City, some with children — there is plenty of room for strollers — as well as young professionals and yacht owners headed for, among other destinations, Nantucket or the Cayman Islands, depending on the season. It is an exciting place to be.

So the question is, how is the food?

Full story

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Re: Battello
« Reply #4 on: 08-20-2014, 01:38pm »
Review from NJ Monthly:



Chef Ryan DePersio and his partners grab the spotlight with Battello in Jersey City
Reviewed by Pat Tanner, Eric Levin   
Posted August 14, 2014


Executive chef Ryan DePersio has a lot riding on the success of Battello. While Fascino, his family’s Montclair BYO—a fixture on NJM’s annual Top 25—will always be “my baby,” as he recently said, Battello represents something he’s long been searching for: a large restaurant with a liquor license in a stunning location. If Battello succeeds, DePersio, 36, will have fulfilled that surging ambition.

DePersio was recruited by fellow Jerseyan Cory Checket, owner of Hoboken’s Turtle Club. Battello opened in March in the Newport Marina on Jersey City’s Hudson River waterfront. The sprawling, high-ceilinged structure that had been Michael Anthony’s faces the towers of Lower Manhattan. As redesigned by Jerseyan Anthony Carrino, co-host of HGTV’s Kitchen Cousins and Cousins Undercover, the 175-seat space looks more maritime. A weathered rowboat hangs upside down above the entrance. Brass lanterns salvaged from an old yacht are mounted on the walls. Stripped of paint, the ceiling trusses high overhead suggest the hull of a sailing ship.

At Fascino, DePersio developed an eclectic style he calls “Italian without borders.” You can find a few of its greatest hits here, including his ethereal ricotta gnocchi with sweet sausage Bolognese—a first-ballot lock for the Jersey Food Hall of Fame, if there were one. DePersio, who also oversees Nico at NJPAC in Newark, is ably assisted by chef de cuisine David Viana, formerly of Daryl in New Brunswick, and pastry chef Joseph Gabriel, whose handiwork we admired at the Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster.

We hit some rough seas in the early going. On our first visit, cocktails arrived after a long wait, followed 30 seconds later by the appetizers. Our server didn’t know which cheeses were in that night’s cheese platter and never bothered to find out.

The kitchen, too, was inconsistent. Salads were either undersalted or oversalted. Buttermilk baked chicken breast with pesto crust was seriously overcooked on one visit. On a second, the meat was moist and juicy, but the skin was flaccid. Both times, though, the generous portion of creamy polenta delighted, as did the sautéed spinach and orange-glazed carrots.

Butter-poached lobster tail with pork belly was poorly executed on one visit (the tail small and bland, the belly hard and dry in spots). Weeks later, the entire dish was on target, including the crispy couscous cake that had not been crispy the first time. Pancetta-wrapped scallops were spectacular on both tries, but their swoosh of toasted almond purée was oversalted one time, just right the next.

Yet there was much smooth sailing. Enjoyable starters included steamed mussels with fregola and sweet onion in a spicy harissa sauce; delicate rock shrimp polpette (meatballs) with burrata, shaved celery heart and Meyer lemon aioli; and grilled octopus with green olive tapenade and shaved sunchokes brightened with tomato vinegar.

In a phone call after our visits, DePersio cited Battello’s tuna rollatini as an example of Italian without borders. He covers a long, thin slice of raw, sushi-grade yellowfin with shaved fennel and cucumber matchsticks, rolls it up, places it on a smear of avocado mousse and serves it with a bright yuzu-sesame vinaigrette. Vivid, balanced flavors, contrasting textures—a clear winner.

Among entrées, skate wing in a delicate rice crust came with perfectly textured fava bean risotto and a foamy mushroom-soy broth. Pignoli-crusted halibut braised in pancetta broth was marvelous on a bed of English peas, snow peas and finely cut asparagus and carrots, with Hershey’s Kiss-shaped pipings of creamy parsnip purée. The kitchen also produced a juicy grilled flatiron steak with flavorful herbed fingerling potatoes and a dab of red-shallot confit.

The hiring of Joseph Gabriel in May lifted desserts considerably. Jasmine-tea panna cotta, previously dull, came to life with brandied cherries, cherry granita and vanilla meringue kisses. Fresh blueberry parfait with Amaretto sabayon and crunchy almond crumble was terrific. (The menu said it came with toasted-almond ice cream. It arrived with no ice cream, but it didn’t matter. The dish was complete without it.)

Battello has assembled a talented team. None, however, have run anything as big as Battello. They seem to have righted their ship and set it on a promising course. We are cautiously optimistic they can keep it going in the right direction.

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Fascino's Ryan DePersio in the kitchen at Jersey City's new Battello
By Vicki Hyman/The Star-Ledger
on March 19, 2014 at 1:23 PM, updated March 19, 2014 at 1:24 PM

Fascino's Ryan DePersio, one of New Jersey's (and certainly Essex County's) most high profile chefs, has a new gig: He's the executive chef at Battello in Jersey City, which had a soft opening last week in the waterfront space formerly occupied by Michael Anthony's, and which was renovated by Anthony Carrino of "Kitchen Cousins" with a modern nautical theme.

Battello, 502 Washington Blvd., offers a seafood-forward menu with an Italian accent: grilled octopus with green olive tapenade, squid ink cavatelli with blue crab amatriciana, pancetta-wrapped scallops, rice-crusted skate wing with fava bean risotto and pignoli-crusted black cod. The desserts seem even more inventive — maple cheesecake with black sesame tahini, green apple sorbet, bacon brittle and lemon-sugar cookie crumbs.

DePersio, who has appeared on the "Today" show and "Chopped," is still with his family-owned Fascino and also runs Nico Kitchen + Bar at NJPAC in Newark (he also sold off Bloomfield's Bar Cara last year).

The restaurant is currently only open for dinner, but will expand to lunch and brunch, with outdoor seating when the weather gets nicer. In addition to the dining room, there is also a large lounge that will feature live music.

The booming Jersey City restaurant scene will welcome another Carrino-associated project later this year: An offshoot of "Top Chef" alum Dale Talde's Brooklyn Asian-American bistro Talde at the Switching Room at 8 Erie St., along with an Italian market and restaurant called Carrino Provisions, set to open in the fall. Other recent openings have included the very intimate Orange & Olive Chef's Table and Orale Mexican Kitchen.

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Re: Battello
« Reply #2 on: 03-13-2014, 12:19pm »
Just opened, for dinner only so far. Looks great, I must say. The bar no longer blocks the view.


(Pic by @BrunCon)

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Battello
« Reply #1 on: 12-04-2013, 01:17pm »
Battello
502 Washington Boulevard
Jersey City, NJ 07310
phone (201) 798-1798


In the former location of Michael Anthony's Restaurant
« Last Edit: 03-13-2014, 12:17pm by MCA™ »

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Battello
« Reply #1 on: 12-04-2013, 01:17pm »